Devil's Quoit. .

Devil's Quoit

An ancient Neolithic burial chamber in the centre of a field, near the coast in Pembrokeshire, Wales.

Formed by a large wedge-shaped capstone which is supported on the east by two large side stones

and the west by a third side stone which now lies on the ground. 

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Visit Date April 2022

In Wales, there are many of these types of burial sites and as in the rest of the UK, they can be referred to as Quoits, Dolmens or Chromlechs. In addition, the name "Devil's Quoit" is also commonly used for other sites and standing stones in the area.

The structures typically have three or more upright standing stones with a large capstone on top. Originally they would have been covered with earth.

In its current form, there is no mound to be seen but it was noted when investigated in 1810 that there was a large circular "Agger" or earthwork around the monument.

The pieces of the monument are of a reddish-brown conglomerate; the capstone measures 2.75m in length and is 2m wide. The uprights would be around 1.5 metres high.

There is little recorded about this site and the chamber is in the centre of a field on private land and is inaccessible due to the area being sealed off by an electrical fence. Despite this, The monument is of national importance and is a substantial relic of a prehistoric funerary and ritual landscape that may retain significant archaeological potential, with a strong probability of the presence of both intact burial or ritual remains, and  environmental and structural evidence, including a buried prehistoric land surface.

The mount is on a peninsular of land with the sea to either side.

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51.66650404534974, -5.05761344477118

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SM 88652 00842 Altitude: 204 ft

Additional information.
This is an important historical site, however, as it is in a field and on private land, surrounded by an electrical fence therefore a close visit is not possible however, the site can be seen from the road and a small pull-in by the field gate is possible.

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Hadleigh Castle

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Hadleigh Castle

Hadleigh castle's history began in about 1215 when constructed by Hubert de Burgh, but its most important time was to come later when extensively refortified during the Hundred Years War, becoming a strategic defence overlooking the Thames estuary.

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Visit Date June2022

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In 1215 King John bestowed many gifts to his chief minister Hubert de Burgh and the Manor of Hadleigh was just one of them.

Herbert was a loyal follower of King John and was to repay some of the king's kindness when he proved himself as a fine military man when he lead the successful defence of Dover castle during a fierce attempted siege in 1216.

During the young Henry III's childhood, Hubert was a very important influence on the young king and during this time he built this large turreted castle on the Manor of Hadleigh as a statement of his power. 

However the young king brought up by priests became devoted to church, art and learning, subsequently after quarrels with the king, Herbert's career and influence waned and he was forced to return his lands, including Hadleigh in 1239.

The castle remained in royal hands for many years however, it was not until almost 100 years later in the time of Edward II, that the castle was to be used as a royal residence.

By the time Edward II son became King Edward III the castle was to become important in the defence of England. Edward III tried to claim the French throne which led to war with France. He immediately realised the importance of the castle as it was ideally situated as a base for defending the Thames estuary against French raids during the Hundred Years War.

The barbican and two striking drum towers – one later used by Georgian revenue men looking out for smugglers – are part of Edward's substantial building works during the 1360s.

Unfortunately for the history of the castle Edward III's subsequent successors took little interest in the castle as a residence and the importance of the castle began to recede. This resulted in the castle being leased to a succession of tenants.

The demise of the castle proper came about when it was eventually sold to Lord Riche in 1551, Riche had even less interest in the castle and this led to him eventually selling it off as building materials.

Today as you can see not much remains of the castle but the setting of the ruins adds to the enjoyment of a visit to this site of once historical importance.

During the demolition, a tiled hearth was built into the floor of the hall to melt down the valuable window leads.

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51.544610767349745, 0.6090745734243965

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TQ 81002 86071 Altitude: 158 ft

Additional information.
This is a fine ruin in a very beautiful setting. It gets busy with walker and is popular for picnics.
There is a good size car park at Hadleigh Farm (51.54785716762494, 0.6068869826787562) This is the site of a rare breeds farm and there is also tea rooms here.
The castle is a short well signposted 15 minute walk from here.

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Talley Abbey.

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T A L L EY   A B B E Y

Talley was founded in the 1180s by Rhys ap Gruffydd (‘The Lord Rhys’, native ruler of the

south Wales kingdom of Deheubarth) for the monks of the Premonstratensian order.

Visit Date August 2022

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Originally Colonised by a small group of canons from the house of St John at Amiens in north-east France. Talley Abbey was the first and only abbey in Wales for the Premonstratensians, monks who were also known as the ‘White Canons’ from the colour of their habit. 

The Order was founded in 1120. In 1126, it received papal approbation by Pope Honorius II.

The Abbeys history is not a tranquil one but was something of an unholy struggle.

Abbot Peter of Whitland abbey, envious of the Talley estates launched a hostile takeover of the land and there was a legal battle between the White Canons and the rival Cistercians he supported.

 

The plans to construct a grand church at the heart of their new abbey were interrupted for nine years.

The White Canons did eventually win but the financial cost was great and with little help then coming from Lord Rhys' they were almost bankrupt, and it is unlikely the full church was ever completed.

There were 4 individual chapels within the structure. The remains of two can be seen in the image above.

The first war of independence in 1277 won by Edward I ensured that the Premonstratensian lost their Welsh sponsorship and the remote Talley only just survived being sustained by income from the churches it served.

The abbey was dissolved by Henry VIII and the structure was mined by the villagers for stone to build much of the present village and the church next to the abbey. The Abbey as can be seen is now in a quite ruinous state, but the majesty of the tower can still be seen.

The beautiful white church on the site now is Eglwys y Plwyf Talyllychau (Talley Parish Church).

The Abbey was once claimed to be the site of the grave of the medieval Welsh poet Dafydd ap Gwilym.

The two lakes near the abbey ruins, which were used for fish farming to support the community of monks run alongside the church and abbey and add to the natural beauty of the site.

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51.97664362266242, -3.9918785275528212

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SN 63273 32774 Altitude: 369 ft

Additional information.


This is a fine ruin in a beautiful small little village and is a must if in the area.
There is a small car park for 2 or 3 cars outside the abbey walls. It is a great area to explore and stroll and the terrain is very flat and easy. A visit to the church is also a must. There is a small community cafe and toilets alongside the site.

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Captain Cat.

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C a p t a i n   C a t 

A sculpture in Swansea

Here we see a sculpture which seems to encompass two elements of the Welsh history and culture of this area.

The statue erected in the heart of Swansea's maritime quarter is of a sailor looking out and ringing a bell.

The statue is named Captain Cat sculpted by theWelsh sculptor Robert Thomas .

Commissioned by Swansea City Council on 1st March 1990.

Visit Date August 2019

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The sculpture does at first glance seem just to refer back to the maritime past of Swansea, but the character here has more significance.

Captain Cat is one of the main characters from possibly the best-known piece of literature to come out of Wales, "Under Milk Wood" by Dylan Thomas. Under Milk Wood was written as a radio drama and was broadcast in 1954.

Subsequently, in the 1972, the story made it to the silver screen being made into a movie starring one of the all-time greatest actors to come out of Wales Richard Burton.

An additional version and then was remade in 2015.

Captain Cat although old and blind is one of the play's most important characters, He observes and comments on the goings-on in the village from his window as he can recognize the different characters by the sound of their footsteps.

CAPTAIN CAT

"The sleepers are rung out of sleep

with his loud get-out-of-bed bell"

from

Under Milk Wood

by

Dylan Thomas

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SS 66059 92618 Altitude: 8 ft

Additional information.

his statue is in the maritime quarter of Swansea. 

There is lots of parking and the closest is the marina car park (51.61679855131115, -3.936364737297523)which is just a 2 minute walk from the site.

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Coetan Arthur

  

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C o e t a n  A r t h u r

Coetan Arthur (also known as Arthurs Quoit).

 A dolmen on the southwest coast of Wales 

on the St. Davids's head peninsular, 

in county of Pembrokeshire, Wales.

This impressive megalithic tomb dates from 

between 4000 to 3000 BC.

The dolmen, which is formed by two vertical 

megaliths erected to support a flat capstone,

is partially collapsed, but still impressive nonetheless.

Visit Date August 2022

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There are many ancient burial sites around the southwest of Wales

These burial sites are often marked with three or more uprights and a large capstone. Often this is all that is left of the site which would originally be covered with earth. This upright/capstone structure has been called a Dolmens or often also referred to here in Wales as a Cromlech, but my understanding is that Cromlech can also refer to a circular stone structure.

This structure should not be confused with Carreg Coeten Arthur which is also in Pembroke, and which will be covered in another blog soon.

The St Davids headland is full of ancient remains including signs of ancient field patterns, Neolithic enclosures, and defensive banks and ditches.

Perhaps the most impressive part of the burial chamber is the massive capstone, which is roughly 6m long and 2.5m wide. The upright stone supporting it (known as an orthostat) is about 1.5m high.

The site here overlooks Whitesands Bay at St. Davids and has a good view but is far enough from the main cliff not to be to battered by any storms that hit the coast.

It has been reported many visitors to the site that they found the site hard to find. I suspect that if you were only casually walking the coast path that this could be true but I found that the site could be seen from quite a distance when walking east to west which seems to be the most natural direction to be walking.

These ancient sites often have a legend attached to them and this one is no exception. The legend for Coetan Arthur states King Arthur himself chucked the stones from nearby Carn Llidi.

Note: The terms Dolmen, Cromlech and Quoit are often used to describe this sort of neolithic site.

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51.90450867492426, -5.308083153876568

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SM 72527 28056 Altitude: 162 ft

Additional information.
Visiting is easy, head to Whitesands bay car park (51.897174093111616, -5.2940221280185105) this is a caravan and camping park and is easy to get to.

There is good facilities for the park, there is a charge for parking.

The walk is around 1mile from the car park but is not flat it is undulating.
Before you descend to the path to Pothmelgan beach (there is a small crossing) you can see the site to the northwest. You can then either take the steep path directly to the site of take the coastal path around the head and then on to the site.

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Port Eynon Salthouse

  

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P o r t  E y n o n  S a l t h o u s e

On Port Eynon Point, on the Gower peninsular, overlooking the bay are the surviving remains of the sixteenth-century Port Eynon Salt House.

Much of what survives today owes to the excavation and subsequent protection of the site.

As well as other valuable industries such as coal, iron, lime and fisheries salt is perhaps overlooked but the Salthouse at Porth Eynon is a reminder of this important and valuable commodities production.

Visit Date August 2022

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The complex is of three stone-lined chambers, with walls approximately one metre thick with stone-flagged floors set into the beach at the foot of a low cliff.

The main building still visible today was used for occupation and storage while the three large chambers closest to the beach were used for salt production.

At high tide, the seawater would enter the beach chambers where it would be stored in a holding tank.

 

The water would be pumped into the Panhouse where large iron pans would be heated by coal furnaces and the water would slowly evaporate. The forming salt would then be skimmed off for storage in the northern building to dry completely.

In the 1500s salt was a valuable commodity not least for the preservation of foodstuff. At this time the British Isles imported much of its salt from France, however, during the mid-1500 the English and French were often at war, so the supply was inconsistent, and the cost grew exponentially and so it became clear that salt produced at home was needed.

The first of the new salt works were set up in 1566 at Dover, Southampton, and on the Essex coast. In the same year, works were established at Blythe near Newcastle, and in the following year, similar concerns were set up in Suffolk and in another part of Essex.

Much of the records of the salt production largely ignored Welsh salt production, but there are records of the salt production that started in mid-west Wales near the Dyfi estuary.

The first knowledge of a salt house at Port Eynon is also mentioned in a document of 1598. It would seem Welsh salt houses of the later 16th century were amongst the most advanced of their day. The value of the salt is perhaps shown by the fact that the site was fortified during the 17th century, with the inclusion of musket loops within the thick walls. It appears, however, salt production ceased around the mid-17th century.

Of course, this is Wales and therefore myths and legends always surround such buildings and this site is no exception.

This site has attracted some interesting stories about its history. The historical annotation of the Lucas family claimed the building was erected in the mid-16th century and fortified by John Lucas who apparently also fortified Culver Hole (previous blog here) connecting the two via an underground passage. From this stronghold, aided by a group of lawless men, he engaged in piracy, resisting all attempts by the authorities to dislodge him. It is also said that 7 generations later another John Lucas found a rich vein of paint mineral and exported it from his base at the Salt House but shortly after his death the building was ruined in a storm. Although interesting this history was later shown to be a fabricated family history written by the Rev. Dr. J. H. Spry during the 1830s in connection with a family lawsuit over the ownership of the property.

Later in the building's life, some of the buildings were demolished but occupation continued in the main house. The most recent was the use of the northern end as oystermen's cottages, which were finally abandoned circa 1880.

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51.53986210851509, -4.208391765954198

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SS 46942 84634 Altitude: 13 ft

Additional information.
Visiting is really easy as in Port Eynon there is a large public car park (51.54431040120058, -4.2118757381346805) which is adjacent to a caravan and camping holiday site. There is also public toilets and a café, shop and take away.
The walk is around 600 metres from the car park and is easy and flat.
Just walk through the camping site and past the Youth Hostal.

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Culver Hole

   

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C u l v e r   H o l e

Legends and tales of smugglers and pirates.

The rugged coast of South Wales has seen many shipwrecks and is well was well known for its rough and dangerous coastlines. What better place than these unwelcoming bays to try and bring booty and contraband ashore away from the H. M Customs men? This well-hidden man-made structure is surrounded by the mystery and legends of ancient pirates and smugglers that came ashore on the South Wales coast.

Visit Date August 2022

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"Culver Hole" is well hidden and difficult to access so it is understandable that it is easy to pass by and not notice it from the cliffs above.

It is accessible by the low tide and it is quite a distance down the cliff to get to it. Or perhaps possible along the beach from the small port of "Port Eynon", easier, of course, if you are on a small boat.

Given its location, it is perhaps unsurprising that so many tales and legends of smugglers are related to it.

The structure of the site settled in its small cove which is only around 4 meters wide consists of a 16m high wall which is 3.6meters thick at the base.

One such legend states that it was used by a powerful local brigand, John Lucas who used it as a storehouse for his ill-gotten gains. There is also a tale that there was a tunnel, big enough to ride a horse through, for over a quarter of a mile to a local "Salthouse" (more on that in another blog).

While it might be true that "Culver Hole" was used in the 17th Century by these dangerous and ruthless men the original use of the structure is more mundane.

The structure, built in the 13th or 14th century is listed as a Dovecot on Coflein (a catalogue of archaeology sites, buildings and monuments in Wales) and that is most likely what this structure is.

Internally it has around 30 tiers of nesting boxes cut into the walls and a narrow stairwell.

It might seem very strange for a dovecot to be placed here and so it is but in the times when this was built doves, pigeons, and their eggs were an important source of food.

The name also would support this as the name Culver derives from the old English word Culfre which means pigeon.

Even given all this, there are still some oddities about this structure. Firstly it seems strange that the holes are so big. Normally you would have a door on a dovecote but the windows are very large for a dovecote, also the location of a beach seems strange. 

There are some historical mentions of the site.

There is some thought that it may have been attached to a castle at some time and there are records of "The Castle of Port Eynon" being mentioned in a lawsuit in 1396.  but there is no evidence of a castle on this site. 

There is a minister's account dated 1429 of a dovecote in the clyve at Penard,

Also, the aforementioned John Lucas is found in a document that states he is said to have repaired a stronghold called Kulvered Hall.

Whatever the uses of the "Culver Hole" it must have seemed a very bleak place in a winter storm, however, there can be no denying that its location on a good day is breathtaking.

Thank you for visiting this blog.

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Culver Hole can be visited but must be done so with great care and at low tide.

About a quarter of a mile from here there is a large public car park (51.54431040120058, -4.2118757381346805) which is adjacent to a caravan and camping holiday site. There is also public toilets and a café, shop and take away.

You can walk from the car park alongside the camp site until you reach the Youth Hostal. The path then takes you right and up the side of the hill but a better course is to walk on to the "Salt House". From here you can look up to the hill and see the marker stone in the last image. If you take the footpath up to this and then go along the cliff for a few hundred yards until you see a stone coast path marker. The path is just opposite this but is narrow and steep. The last few yards are difficult as you will be climbing down the rocks at the bottom. It is passable with care.

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