Flint Castle

 

Started in 1277 Flint castle is the earliest and most unusual of Wales’ English-built castles

Flint was the first castle to be constructed as part of Edward I campaign

against Llywelyn ap Gruffydd in north Wales.

Visit Date April 2024

Flint Castle from the river Dee

Edward I (also known as Edward Longshanks was King of England from 1272 to 1307) took great care in choosing the location.  Flint's low-lying position may seem odd for a fortification, but Edward identified the importance of the location which ensured access by sea as well as by land.  

The Northwest Tower

Edward I needed quickly to strengthen his rule in Wales and set about his programme of castle building. Flint was his first and was seen as the gateway to Wales with its position being only a day's march from Chester on the east and a further days march to another planned castle at Rhuddlan in the west.

It started what was to become Edward I's "Iron Ring". A chain of fortresses designed to encircle North Wales and oppress the Welsh.

Speed was important in the building of the castle and indeed also regarding the fortified town. Perhaps this accounts for the simple design of the castle. Workers were brought from England to build the castle and soon the initial workforce of 970 diggers, 300 carpenters and 200 stonemasons, grew to 2300 very quickly. Incentives were given to workers in the bonuses paid, ‘by the King’s gift’ to those workers who excelled, and deductions for those whose work was deemed tardy or substandard.

The Great Tower or Donjon

The castle is based on a square plan with a detached keep. The inner bailey has round towers on each side, with one of the towers detached and this being the most striking Great Tower or Donjon.

This design was new for Britain at the time however influences can be seen based on Savoyard models used in France and Edward likely saw this design during his 1270 route to the Crusades or perhaps just as likely his master mason James of Saint George would have been influenced by Jean Mesot when they worked together in Savoy, France.

Entrance to inner bailey from outer bailey

The outer bailey, most of which is now gone would have been the main entrance into the castle complex. The entrance into the main inner bailey area would have been over a large wooden drawbridge with a portcullis.

Much of this is gone now with the modern-day entrance being insignificant compared to the large, impressive structure it once was.

The Southwest Tower (Ditch filled in)

The ditch that it would have spanned would have been 20 feet deep and it would have been part of the moat defence for this part of the castle. It is important to note that it would also have been tidal with the river Dee completely isolating the inner bailey at high tide.

Inner Courtyard

Not much is left of the inner courtyard structures, the outlines of which can be seen along with the inner wall.

Inner showing location of well.

The main work buildings would have been here along with the inner bailey well.

The Great Tower, which was the main keep, would have also needed to be accessed by another wooden bridge from the inner bailey.

The Great Tower or Donjon

The walls were 5 metres thick and at the base would have been even thicker and there was an additional well in base of the tower.

Inner well of the Great Tower

Vertical channels in the walls with chutes to the moat were used to clear latrines from the upper floors.

Vertical latrine chutes of the Great Tower

This part of the structure would also have included a chapel.

The remaining three towers were connected by the fortification walls.

The Southwest Tower

These towers would have stood in addition to the wall fortifications which would have had arrow-slit holes in them unfortunately this has now all gone and the low remains of the base of the wall are all that is left to see.

Inner walls

These towers would have had living accommodations above with combat levels with more arrow slits in the walls.

Inner Walls

Flint Castle's defining moment in history came on Palm Sunday, 1282 when Dafydd ap Gruffudd ( Prince of Wales from 11 December 1282 until his execution on 3 October 1283) launched a surprise attack. Dafydd's rebellion forced his brother, Llewelyn ap Gruffudd ( prince of Gwynedd, and later was recognised as the prince of Wales  from 1258 until his death at Cilmeri in 1282), to join him against the English. The Welsh rising was easily suppressed, Llewelyn, perhaps the only man capable of dealing with the English threat, was killed later that year.

Fortification wall leading to the N/W Tower

Then in 1294, Flint was attacked again during the revolt of Madog ap Llywelyn (leader of the Welsh revolt of 1294–95 against English rule). This time the commander of the castle, William de la Leye, was forced to set fire to much of the town to prevent it from being captured by the Welsh. The castle remained unconquered, and after the attack the town was soon rebuilt.

The N/W Tower

Flint Castle is also famous as the location of a fateful meeting in 1399 between Richard II and his rival to the crown Henry Bolingbroke (later Henry IV), an event immortalised in Shakespeare’s Richard II.

It was at Flint that Richard attended chapel and then climbed the great tower walls to view the arrival of Bolingbroke. Here Richard agreed to abdicate

Wall leading to the S/W Tower

The castle once again confirmed its military value during the Welsh rebellion of Owain Glyndŵr (the last native-born Welshman to claim the title Prince of Wales). The invasion of 1403 destroyed only the town, while the stronghold remained unconquered until the uprising fell in 1408.

During the time of the English Civil War, Flint castle was occupied by Royalist forces, then in the years 1643-1645, it changed hands twice. Eventually, following a three-month siege, it was captured by the armies of Parliament led by General Mytton in 1647.

To prevent its re-use, the castle was destroyed on Oliver Cromwell’s order.

The uncovered entrance to the inner bailey with the great tower in the distance

In 1784-85, parts of the castle were dismantled to make way for the construction of the county jail within the outer ward - a continuation of the castle’s traditional role within the county town. Later photographs of the jail show the approach to the building over what would have been the drawbridge to the gatehouse of the outer bailey, now mettled and flanked by a low stone wall. The jail was closed in around 1880 and became the headquarters for the 5th Battalion of the Royal Welch Fusiliers. The building was closed in 1969 and demolished in 1970, leaving no trace of its existence.

View southwards of the Great Tower

The castle was transferred to Cadw in the 1980s.

(Cadw is the historic environment service of the Welsh Government and part of the Tourism and Culture group. Cadw works to protect historic buildings and structures, landscapes and heritage sites)

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OS Grid Ref:SJ 24706 73343

Additional information.

Visiting is very easy with the site well signposted off the A458 in the town of Flint, North Wales, with a large car park (53.25189984860036, -3.1311048763469933) which is free.
Access is currently free and the site has good information boards available.


There are no facilities on site but the town of Flint has all the amenities you would expect.

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St. Dogmaels Abby and St Thomas' Church.

Founded in 1120 on the site of an earlier pre-Norman church, St. Dogmael’s status as a religious centre can be seen in extensive ruins which span four centuries of monastic life. Elements of the church and cloister are 12th century in origin, while the tall west and north walls of the nave are 13th century.

Visit Date September 2023

St Dogmaels Abbey - Infirmary

St Dogmaels story starts long before the abbey was built.

The Abbey was constructed and inhabited by The Monks of Tiron.

St Dogmaels Abbey - Infirmary

The Tironensian Order or the Order of Tiron was a medieval monastic order named after the location of the mother abbey (Tiron Abbey, French: Abbaye de la Sainte-Trinité de Tiron, established in 1109)

St Dogmaels Abbey - Infirmary

The foundation of Tiron Abbey by Bernard of Abbeville was part of wider movements of monastic reform in Europe in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. Bernard intended to restore the asceticism and strict observance of the Rule of St. Benedict in monastic life, insisting on manual labour.

St Dogmaels Abbey - The Nave & West Wing

Tiron was the first of the new religious orders to spread internationally. Within less than five years of its creation, the Order of Tiron owned 117 priories and abbeys in France, Britain and Ireland.

St Dogmaels Abbey - The Nave & West Wing

Tiron's influence in Britain was limited. St Dogmaels was the only Tironian abbey to be established in Wales or England, although the house also had daughter priories in Wales and Ireland. A few Tironian abbeys were established in Scotland, but they soon formed their own independent order.

St Dogmaels Abbey - The infirmary

And so in in 1120 on the site of an earlier pre-Norman church, St Dogmael’s status as a religious centre was created.

The Chancel with a Crypt

The monastic vows laid great stress on poverty, chastity and obedience, and these ideals were characteristic of the monastic life, especially in the early years. The abbey would have taken in any pilgrims and travelers requiring hospitality.

The Refectory with the Cloister and Nave in the background

Not all aspects of the monastic life at St Dogmaels continued to flourish, and in later centuries the abbey suffered from a decline in standards as well as in its financial position. In 1402, for instance, at the time of the visitation by the bishop of St David’s, it appears that only 4 monks were left in the abbey and they were of disrepute, it having been noted, "They were gluttonous and one of them named as Howel Lange had been found drunk and because of this and his "evil deeds" he was banned from drinking any alcohol for a year".

The Refectory

After this visit for some time, the abbey saw an improvement in its monastic life but despite this, St. Dogmaels was never raised to the levels seen years before and its life as a monastery was declining again and was ended during the reign of King Henry VIII when in 1536 it took its place with many other places with an income of less than £200 a year.

The North Transept

The assessed annual value of the monastery at the dissolution was £87 8s.6d

St Dogmaels Abbey - The North Transept

Much of the abbey's possessions, including Caldey and Fishguard were leased to John Bradshaw of Presteigne, in Radnorshire. A few years later, in 1543, Bradshaw was able to purchase the properties which he already had on lease. He built a mansion for himself, almost certainly within the abbey grounds, and possibly took stone from the abbey buildings for its construction. It is thought that none of the remains of these buildings can be seen today.

St Dogmaels Abbey - The North Transept

It was reported that by the start of the 17th century, the site was in a ruinous state.

In 1646 the site was bought by David Parry of Neuadd-Trefawr, near Cardigan but he never lived there.

The North Transept, Nave and Guest House

Early in the eighteenth century, a new parish church was erected alongside the old abbey church. A century later, in 1847, this was replaced by St Thomas' Church which now stands on the site.

St. Thomas' Church

The original plans were made in 1847 for a church to cost £600, but the final cost was £1,500. A tower was proposed but funds were insufficient. Daniel Evans of Cardigan superintended the building, and John Davies and John Thomas of Llechryd were the contractors.

St. Thomas' Church

St. Thomas' Church

St. Thomas' Church

1866, a vicarage and its coach house were added with materials from the old abbey buildings.

St. Thomas' Church

In 1934 the remains of the abbey were placed in State guardianship by the Representative Body of the Church in Wales. The site was cleared and the masonry consolidated between 1947 and 1968 and the ruins are now maintained by Cadw: Welsh Historic Monuments.

St Dogmael

Finally, Saint Dogmael was a 6th-century Welsh monk and preacher who is considered a saint. His feast day is 14 June.

Saint Dogmael seems to have concentrated his preaching in Pembrokeshire, where there are several churches dedicated to him.

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52.080568145326666, -4.680455205913844

Google search term:
St Dogmaels Abbey

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OS Details: -
SN 16401 45858 Altitude:62 ft

Additional information.

Visiting is very easy.

A487 and then B4546 to the Abbey
There is limited parking at the site. (52.08084819413824, -4.679396371342211) and this is not always available especially on Tuesdays when it is the venue for the local market. but a better bet is at the town parking (52.08178485298606, -4.677090769613847) and it is just a short  200 m walk to the Abbey.

There is a great cafe and also museum an the site.

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St Bridget’s Church

St Bridget's Church, Skenfrith was consecrated in 1207 and is

one of the oldest churches in continuous use in Wales.

Visit Date August 2023

The exterior of the church is a delight, with a massively buttressed, squat square tower built of red sandstone.

The tower is topped by a dovecote belfry and a pyramidal roof.

It has been restored on at least two occasions the first in 1896 and then again in 1910

The church is medieval in origin, with the earliest parts believed to date from the reign of King John (1166–1216). It has been extended firstly in the fourteenth and once again in the sixteenth century.

The interior contains the chest tomb of John Morgan, who died in 1557, who was a Member of Parliament for the Monmouth Boroughs, Steward of the Duchy of Lancaster and last Governor of the Three Castles, of Skenfrith, Grosmont and White Castle.

The font is inscribed on its east side with the date 1661 but this date is of the re-erection but is much older than this.

The font can be locked this was to prevent the common practice in days gone by of stealing the water and used in casting spells.

The lectern was commissioned in 1909 and is by the Arts and Crafts designer, George Jack, and incorporates a figure of St Bridget.

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51.87906878835942, -2.7913557263133586

Google Search term:

St Bridget's Church, Skenfrith
What Three Words reference: -
///parked.sporting.help

OS Details: -
SO 45606 20341 : Altitude:141 ft

Additional information.

There is parking here (51.87809680428079, -2.790591909573205) for a a dozen cars or so and the place is easy to visit.

Off the B4347 from Monmouth and on to the B4521 takes you to Skenfrith.

There are no facilities at the site.

The site is popular in the summer months with locals sunbathing and swimming in the river.




A full list of blogs can be found at my website

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Skenfrith Castle

Skenfrith Castle (Welsh: Castell Ynysgynwraidd) is an 

ancient medieval fortress with a substantial central tower.

Visit Date August 2023

Commissioned by William Fitz Osbern, the Earl of Hereford, in the early 12th century the castle comprised earthworks with timber defences.

What is left of the remains is the later constructed fortress by Hubert de Burge in the 13th century.

Built on an earthen mound this structure was one of the ‘Three Castles of Gwent’ (along with Grosmont and White Castle)

Controlling a large area of Gwent the three castles guarded the border country between The river Wye and the Black Mountains with Skenfrith Castle overlooking one of the main routes between England and Wales on the banks of the river Monnow.

 

In 1135, a major Welsh revolt took place and in response, King Stephen brought together Skenfrith Castle and its sister fortifications of Grosmont and White Castle to form a lordship known as the "Three Castles", which continued to play a role in defending the region from Welsh attack for several centuries.

Skenfrith was rebuilt in stone. In 1201, King John gave the castle to a powerful royal official, Hubert de Burgh (Earl of Kent) who destroyed the old castle and rebuilt the rectangular outer walls with the round keep and towers we can see today.

Hubert fell from power in 1232 and was stripped of the castles, which were placed under the command of Walerund Teutonicus

Walerund built a new chapel at the castle in 1244 and repaired the keep's roof

In 1267 the Castle along with the other two castles were granted to Edmund, the Earl of Lancaster

King Edward I' (20 November 1272 – 7 July 1307). In his conquest of Wales in 1282 removed much of the castle's military utility and saw the demise of the importance of the castle and by 1538, it had fallen into disuse and ruin.

In 1825, the Three Castles were sold off to Henry Somerset, the Duke of Beaufort. Skenfrith was eventually acquired by the lawyer Harold Sands, who carried out some conservation of the site; he went on to give the castle to the National Trust. Skenfrith was placed into the care of the state in 1936,

Skenfirth Castle is managed by Cadw

(Cadw is the historic environment service of the Welsh Government and part of the Tourism and Culture group. Cadw works to protect historic buildings and structures, landscapes and heritage sites) 

A visit to the castle would be enhanced by seeking out a disused mill on the south-eastern side of the castle. Much later than the castle of course dated 1867 at the 1st-floor level of the SW side; the mill continued to function until 1990 although by that time the mill had been converted to electric power.

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Visit Information: -

Google Reference: -
51.878293893054106, -2.790379413287163

Google Search term:
Skenfrith Castle

What Three Words reference: -
///parked.sporting.help

OS Details: -
SO 45697 20264 : Altitude:141 ft

Additional information.

There is parking here (51.87809680428079, -2.790591909573205) for a a dozen cars or so and the place is easy to visit.

Off the B4347 from Monmouth and on to the B4521 takes you to Skenfrith.

There are no facilities at the site.

The site is popular in the summer months with locals sunbathing and swimming in the river.




A full list of blogs can be found at my website

Read More