Newcastle Emlyn Castle

 

Where the last Dragon in Wales was slain.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle, a significant landmark in the town, has a rich and turbulent history, reflected in its physical evolution and its current state as a scheduled monument and Grade I listed structure.

Visit Date: March 2025

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

The town of Newcastle Emlyn in the county of Carmarthenshire takes its name from the castle and the ancient district of Emlyn.

The Castle, now a scheduled monument and Grade I listed structure, exhibits the remains of a strategic medieval design, adapted over centuries from a probable timber and earth stronghold to a stone fortress and then a residence, before its eventual destruction.

Dragon Gate at Newcastle Emlyn Castle

The castle is strategically located on a steep-sided promontory within a great bend or loop of the River Teifi, making it naturally defensible on three sides. Its only land approach was from the west.

The inner court, roughly triangular in shape, is believed to be the core of the 13th-century castle. It measures approximately 45 metres east-west and 25 metres across at its western end.

An outer court was located to the west, towards the town, and was defined by earthworks. This outer court was roughly 50 metres east-west by 40 metres, with its eastern part later obscured by a 17th-century ravelin.

Click on any image to see just images

The castle has a long and turbulent history which starts before 1240 as there may have been an older building on the site, possibly taken by the Welsh leader Llywelyn the Great.

In Around 1240 A stone castle was likely built by Maredudd ap Rhys, a Welsh lord. This made Newcastle Emlyn one of the few stone castles built by the Welsh in West Wales. It might have started as a wooden structure before being rebuilt in stone by 1287. The castle served as an important administrative center since Maredudd lived mainly at Dryslwyn Castle.

In the 1250s The "new castle" (Castell Newydd Emlyn), which gave the town its name, was established on the banks of the River Teifi.

In 1257 The castle is first mentioned in historical documents. This year, King Henry III approved an agreement that allowed Maredudd to divide the Emlyn area. A bridge connecting Newcastle Emlyn to Adpar was also built.

In 1271 Rhys ap Maredudd, Maredudd's son, gained ownership of the castle.

In 1287 Rhys ap Maredudd rebelled against the English Crown. The castle was attacked by Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, but Rhys's men recaptured it.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

During 1287-1288 The castle was besieged and captured by Robert Tiptoft, Justiciar of South Wales, after a 23-day barricade. Rhys ap Maredudd fled, ending his revolt, and his estate was confiscated by the Crown. The English forces had to haul their siege engine from Dryslwyn to Cardigan with forty oxen, and then needed sixty oxen to bring it up the Teifi Valley to Newcastle Emlyn.

In 1291 Rhys ap Maredudd was captured and executed the following year.

In 1294-1295 The castle was abandoned during Madoc ap Llewelyn's revolt. However, David ap Moris and his son David Fychan held the castle until the King arrived, and David Fychan was subsequently made Bailiff of Emlyn.

IN 1300 The Treasurer of South Wales was instructed by Edward I to ensure the castle was repaired and provisioned.

In 1303 A settlement outside the castle gates was formally established as a borough, granted a weekly market and two annual fairs. It became known as Newtown Emlyn and saw the creation of 26 burgage plots, increasing to 62 by 1316.

In 1300-1350 The castle flourished and saw major constructions during the reigns King Edward I, II, and III, including the construction of a great hall and twin-tower gatehouse.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In the Early 14th Century The town thrived, but its growth faced challenges from nearby places and events like the Black Death.

In 1312 Edward II commissioned a new hall, costing £50.

In 1343 A report indicated that the castle was in poor shape. Edward, the Black Prince, acquired the castle along with his new title The Prince of Wales.

The period 1347-1348 Richard de la Bere, the Prince's Chamberlain, managed a rebuilding project for the castle, including new twin-tower gatehouses. As a reward for his service, he was permitted to use the castle rent-free.

In 1382 The castle was granted to Simon Burley and ceased to be a royal property.

In 1403  Owain Glyndŵr's forces took the castle during his "war of independence", causing considerable damage before it was quickly reclaimed by Sir Thomas Carew.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In 1428 The castle was described as being in ruins.

In the Mid-15th Century: Gruffydd ap Nicholas, with help from the Earl of Pembrokeshire, regained control of the castle for the Welsh Lords.

In 1462 Thomas ap Gruffydd succeeded to the ownership of the castle after his father's death.

In Around 1500 Sir Rhys ap Thomas acquired the castle and remodeled it into a comfortable residence, adding large windows and a deer park

In 1521 The castle and estate passed to Sir Rhys' grandson, Sir Rhys ap Gruffydd.

In 1530 Sir Rhys ap Gruffydd was executed for treason, and his lands, including the castle, were reclaimed by the Crown, ending the era of local Welsh lords for nearly a century.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In 1532 A detailed survey revealed the inner ward contained a hall, chapel, and other domestic buildings.

In 1552 A chapel was noted to exist outside the castle's walls.

In the  Early 17th Century: The castle was documented as being in good condition.

In the Mid-17th Century (1640s): The castle suffered from damage during the English Civil War, with defenses added but ultimately left in ruins.

In 1644 The Royalist Sir Charles Gerard captured the castle from Parliamentary forces after several attempts, leading to it changing hands multiple times during the war.

In 1645 Major-General Rowland Laugharne besieged the castle for Parliament but was routed by Gerard in a fierce engagement below the castle walls.

In 1648 After the Royalists surrendered, Cromwell's forces destroyed the castle to prevent it from being used again. The site was neglected afterward, and locals took stones from it to build their homes.

In Around 1700: Documents indicated that the castle had been mostly dismantled by then. 

Showing the remains of Capel Bach y Drindod walls.

In 1785 The chapel was rebuilt and became known locally as 'Capel Bach y Drindod,' which means 'little Chapel of the Trinity.'

In 1830 The castle and chapel were depicted in a print, located in the parish of Cenarth.

In 1843 The parish of Newcastle Emlyn was established, and a new church was built. The chapel served as a schoolroom before it was demolished, and the area later turned into gardens.

In the Mid-19th Century (1850): The castle came under the ownership of Lord Cawdor.

During 1978-1982: Human remains were uncovered during consolidation work on the gatehouse masonry and the construction of a car park by Carmarthenshire District Council.

In 1985 The first accurate plan of the castle site was produced. Further work on the car park revealed the south wall of a chapel and five burials.

• Today: The castle exists as shattered ruins, particularly its gatehouse and adjacent towers, which remain visible. It is a significant landmark and provides communal and recreational space for the town. The legend of the last dragon in Wales, said to have been slain at the castle, is celebrated with dragon gates and sculptures within its grounds.

The legend of the Dragon:-

Gwiber Emlyn The last Dragon in Wales

There are many Dragon legends in Wales, and even our national flag has a Dragon on it.

According to local legend, Newcastle Emlyn saw the last appearance of a dragon in Wales. According to the tale, a winged creature known as a wyvern flew over the town during a fair. It landed in the castle wall and promptly fell asleep.  A brave soldier lay a red shawl on the river Teifi and hid nearby. 

The River Teifi at Emlyn Castle

When the dragon awoke it was attracted by the shawl and flew down to the river to snatch it. The soldier leapt out and speared the dragon, and the dragon's blood poisoned the river killing all the fish.

Footer:

Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
52.0390991353816, -4.463191172963189

What Three Words reference: -
///breed.zones.flickers

OS Details: -
Grid Ref: SN 31131 40719

Additional information.
Visiting is easy as this is a car park at the castle (52.03916467192921, -4.465828214069767).

There are lots of facilities in the Town.

A full list of blogs can be found at my website

Read More

Strata Florida Abbey

Strata Florida Abbey (Welsh: Abaty Ystrad Fflur ) 

A former Cistercian abbey 

situated just outside Pontrhydfendigaid, 

near Tregaron in the county of Ceredigion, Wales. 

Visit Date April 2024

The West Front Gateway

Founded in 1164 it was established by white-robed Cistercian monks also known as 'The White Canons' as part of a movement that spread across much of western Europe in the early Middle Ages.

Stata Florida was consecrated in 1201.

Click on any image to see enlarged version

The area around St Davids was occupied by the Norman Marcher lordship of Pembroke by the early 12th century, with St Davids firmly under Norman influence after that, the princely Dinefwr family of Deheubarth transferred their patronage to Strata Florida, and interred many of their family members there.

The Nave

Strata Florida became the most famous church in Wales after St Davids –­ a place of pilgrimage and a linchpin of Welsh culture.

Detailing on the west front

Strata Florida was founded through the patronage of Rhys ap Gruffydd. In 1184, a further charter was issued by Lord Rhys, reaffirming Strata Florida as a monastery under the patronage of Deheubarth, a principality of South Wales.

The Monks Choir (North Transept in background)

By 1238 Strata Florida had been raised to a powerful religious centre of great importance. At this time Prince Llewellyn ap Iorwerth (Llywelyn the Great 1173-1240) held council here forcing the Welsh leaders to acknowledge his son Dafydd

The South Transept

Strata Florida became an important and powerful religious centre. Around 1238, Prince Llywelyn ap Iorwerth held a council at Strata Florida. It was here that he made the other Welsh leaders acknowledge his son Dafydd ap Llywelyn (1212 - 1246) as his rightful successor. 

In 1401, during the early years of Owain Glyndŵr's (Prince of Wales 1400 – 1409) rebellion, the monks were evicted from the monastery by King Henry IV (King of England 1399 - 1430) as they were seen to be sympathetic to Glyndwr. 

Henry then turned the Abbey into a military base.

Under the control of a commander The Earl of Worcester, the abbey held a garrison of several hundred men for the battles against the Welsh Rebels against the English crown.

At the end of the conflicts with Glyndwr, the monks were allowed to return to the abbey.

The Chapter House

As part of the ongoing conflict between Henry VIII and the catholic church in 1539, the abbey was dissolved and the abbey was sold off. 

The site was abandoned and allowed to fall into a ruinous state.

Much later  Stephen Williams, a railway engineer and founder member of the Cambrian Archaeological Association, took interest in the Abby and began excavations of the site and in 1848  the association leased the Abbey site to create better displays and presentations to the public.  

Click on any image to enlarge

The present parish church of St. Mary, within the boundaries of the graveyard, may have been built with stone taken from the monastic site.

Some of the descendants of the Lord Rhys have been buried at this Abbey.

Among the buried here are 11 princes of the Welsh royal house of Dinefwr.

Notable burials include Prince Gruffydd ap Rhys II

The Presbytery with the plinth marking the high alter

The notable poet Dafydd ap Gwilym is said to be buried under a yew in the churchyard. 

Because of these important burials, Strata Florida has been referred to as ‘the Westminster Abbey of Wales’.

Click on any image to enlarge

The site was designated as a Scheduled Ancient Monument in 1919 and is now in the care of Cadw.

Footer:Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
52.27541915307934, -3.839258866304253

What Three Words reference: -
///bothered.tour.computers

OS Details: -
OS Grid Ref: SN 74624 65701 : Altitude:194 m

Additional information.

Visiting is very easy with good b roads to site with Abbey Road signposted off the b4343 at
Pontrhydfendigaid. Access is currently free and the site has good information boards available.


There is a visitor centre on site but the opening times are varied. It was closed when I visited but I believe there may be a small café and toilets . Don't rely on this being open for your visit.

A full list of blogs can be found at my website

Read More

Flint Castle

 

Started in 1277 Flint castle is the earliest and most unusual of Wales’ English-built castles

Flint was the first castle to be constructed as part of Edward I campaign

against Llywelyn ap Gruffydd in north Wales.

Visit Date April 2024

Flint Castle from the river Dee

Edward I (also known as Edward Longshanks was King of England from 1272 to 1307) took great care in choosing the location.  Flint's low-lying position may seem odd for a fortification, but Edward identified the importance of the location which ensured access by sea as well as by land.  

The Northwest Tower

Edward I needed quickly to strengthen his rule in Wales and set about his programme of castle building. Flint was his first and was seen as the gateway to Wales with its position being only a day's march from Chester on the east and a further days march to another planned castle at Rhuddlan in the west.

It started what was to become Edward I's "Iron Ring". A chain of fortresses designed to encircle North Wales and oppress the Welsh.

Speed was important in the building of the castle and indeed also regarding the fortified town. Perhaps this accounts for the simple design of the castle. Workers were brought from England to build the castle and soon the initial workforce of 970 diggers, 300 carpenters and 200 stonemasons, grew to 2300 very quickly. Incentives were given to workers in the bonuses paid, ‘by the King’s gift’ to those workers who excelled, and deductions for those whose work was deemed tardy or substandard.

The Great Tower or Donjon

The castle is based on a square plan with a detached keep. The inner bailey has round towers on each side, with one of the towers detached and this being the most striking Great Tower or Donjon.

This design was new for Britain at the time however influences can be seen based on Savoyard models used in France and Edward likely saw this design during his 1270 route to the Crusades or perhaps just as likely his master mason James of Saint George would have been influenced by Jean Mesot when they worked together in Savoy, France.

Entrance to inner bailey from outer bailey

The outer bailey, most of which is now gone would have been the main entrance into the castle complex. The entrance into the main inner bailey area would have been over a large wooden drawbridge with a portcullis.

Much of this is gone now with the modern-day entrance being insignificant compared to the large, impressive structure it once was.

The Southwest Tower (Ditch filled in)

The ditch that it would have spanned would have been 20 feet deep and it would have been part of the moat defence for this part of the castle. It is important to note that it would also have been tidal with the river Dee completely isolating the inner bailey at high tide.

Inner Courtyard

Not much is left of the inner courtyard structures, the outlines of which can be seen along with the inner wall.

Inner showing location of well.

The main work buildings would have been here along with the inner bailey well.

The Great Tower, which was the main keep, would have also needed to be accessed by another wooden bridge from the inner bailey.

The Great Tower or Donjon

The walls were 5 metres thick and at the base would have been even thicker and there was an additional well in base of the tower.

Inner well of the Great Tower

Vertical channels in the walls with chutes to the moat were used to clear latrines from the upper floors.

Vertical latrine chutes of the Great Tower

This part of the structure would also have included a chapel.

The remaining three towers were connected by the fortification walls.

The Southwest Tower

These towers would have stood in addition to the wall fortifications which would have had arrow-slit holes in them unfortunately this has now all gone and the low remains of the base of the wall are all that is left to see.

Inner walls

These towers would have had living accommodations above with combat levels with more arrow slits in the walls.

Inner Walls

Flint Castle's defining moment in history came on Palm Sunday, 1282 when Dafydd ap Gruffudd ( Prince of Wales from 11 December 1282 until his execution on 3 October 1283) launched a surprise attack. Dafydd's rebellion forced his brother, Llewelyn ap Gruffudd ( prince of Gwynedd, and later was recognised as the prince of Wales  from 1258 until his death at Cilmeri in 1282), to join him against the English. The Welsh rising was easily suppressed, Llewelyn, perhaps the only man capable of dealing with the English threat, was killed later that year.

Fortification wall leading to the N/W Tower

Then in 1294, Flint was attacked again during the revolt of Madog ap Llywelyn (leader of the Welsh revolt of 1294–95 against English rule). This time the commander of the castle, William de la Leye, was forced to set fire to much of the town to prevent it from being captured by the Welsh. The castle remained unconquered, and after the attack the town was soon rebuilt.

The N/W Tower

Flint Castle is also famous as the location of a fateful meeting in 1399 between Richard II and his rival to the crown Henry Bolingbroke (later Henry IV), an event immortalised in Shakespeare’s Richard II.

It was at Flint that Richard attended chapel and then climbed the great tower walls to view the arrival of Bolingbroke. Here Richard agreed to abdicate

Wall leading to the S/W Tower

The castle once again confirmed its military value during the Welsh rebellion of Owain Glyndŵr (the last native-born Welshman to claim the title Prince of Wales). The invasion of 1403 destroyed only the town, while the stronghold remained unconquered until the uprising fell in 1408.

During the time of the English Civil War, Flint castle was occupied by Royalist forces, then in the years 1643-1645, it changed hands twice. Eventually, following a three-month siege, it was captured by the armies of Parliament led by General Mytton in 1647.

To prevent its re-use, the castle was destroyed on Oliver Cromwell’s order.

The uncovered entrance to the inner bailey with the great tower in the distance

In 1784-85, parts of the castle were dismantled to make way for the construction of the county jail within the outer ward - a continuation of the castle’s traditional role within the county town. Later photographs of the jail show the approach to the building over what would have been the drawbridge to the gatehouse of the outer bailey, now mettled and flanked by a low stone wall. The jail was closed in around 1880 and became the headquarters for the 5th Battalion of the Royal Welch Fusiliers. The building was closed in 1969 and demolished in 1970, leaving no trace of its existence.

View southwards of the Great Tower

The castle was transferred to Cadw in the 1980s.

(Cadw is the historic environment service of the Welsh Government and part of the Tourism and Culture group. Cadw works to protect historic buildings and structures, landscapes and heritage sites)

Footer:Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
53.25173938647722, -3.129849610279812

What Three Words reference: -
///embraced.buzzer.glorified

OS Details: -
OS Grid Ref:SJ 24706 73343

Additional information.

Visiting is very easy with the site well signposted off the A458 in the town of Flint, North Wales, with a large car park (53.25189984860036, -3.1311048763469933) which is free.
Access is currently free and the site has good information boards available.


There are no facilities on site but the town of Flint has all the amenities you would expect.

A full list of blogs can be found at my website

Read More