Newcastle Emlyn Castle

 

Where the last Dragon in Wales was slain.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle, a significant landmark in the town, has a rich and turbulent history, reflected in its physical evolution and its current state as a scheduled monument and Grade I listed structure.

Visit Date: March 2025

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

The town of Newcastle Emlyn in the county of Carmarthenshire takes its name from the castle and the ancient district of Emlyn.

The Castle, now a scheduled monument and Grade I listed structure, exhibits the remains of a strategic medieval design, adapted over centuries from a probable timber and earth stronghold to a stone fortress and then a residence, before its eventual destruction.

Dragon Gate at Newcastle Emlyn Castle

The castle is strategically located on a steep-sided promontory within a great bend or loop of the River Teifi, making it naturally defensible on three sides. Its only land approach was from the west.

The inner court, roughly triangular in shape, is believed to be the core of the 13th-century castle. It measures approximately 45 metres east-west and 25 metres across at its western end.

An outer court was located to the west, towards the town, and was defined by earthworks. This outer court was roughly 50 metres east-west by 40 metres, with its eastern part later obscured by a 17th-century ravelin.

Click on any image to see just images

The castle has a long and turbulent history which starts before 1240 as there may have been an older building on the site, possibly taken by the Welsh leader Llywelyn the Great.

In Around 1240 A stone castle was likely built by Maredudd ap Rhys, a Welsh lord. This made Newcastle Emlyn one of the few stone castles built by the Welsh in West Wales. It might have started as a wooden structure before being rebuilt in stone by 1287. The castle served as an important administrative center since Maredudd lived mainly at Dryslwyn Castle.

In the 1250s The "new castle" (Castell Newydd Emlyn), which gave the town its name, was established on the banks of the River Teifi.

In 1257 The castle is first mentioned in historical documents. This year, King Henry III approved an agreement that allowed Maredudd to divide the Emlyn area. A bridge connecting Newcastle Emlyn to Adpar was also built.

In 1271 Rhys ap Maredudd, Maredudd's son, gained ownership of the castle.

In 1287 Rhys ap Maredudd rebelled against the English Crown. The castle was attacked by Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, but Rhys's men recaptured it.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

During 1287-1288 The castle was besieged and captured by Robert Tiptoft, Justiciar of South Wales, after a 23-day barricade. Rhys ap Maredudd fled, ending his revolt, and his estate was confiscated by the Crown. The English forces had to haul their siege engine from Dryslwyn to Cardigan with forty oxen, and then needed sixty oxen to bring it up the Teifi Valley to Newcastle Emlyn.

In 1291 Rhys ap Maredudd was captured and executed the following year.

In 1294-1295 The castle was abandoned during Madoc ap Llewelyn's revolt. However, David ap Moris and his son David Fychan held the castle until the King arrived, and David Fychan was subsequently made Bailiff of Emlyn.

IN 1300 The Treasurer of South Wales was instructed by Edward I to ensure the castle was repaired and provisioned.

In 1303 A settlement outside the castle gates was formally established as a borough, granted a weekly market and two annual fairs. It became known as Newtown Emlyn and saw the creation of 26 burgage plots, increasing to 62 by 1316.

In 1300-1350 The castle flourished and saw major constructions during the reigns King Edward I, II, and III, including the construction of a great hall and twin-tower gatehouse.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In the Early 14th Century The town thrived, but its growth faced challenges from nearby places and events like the Black Death.

In 1312 Edward II commissioned a new hall, costing £50.

In 1343 A report indicated that the castle was in poor shape. Edward, the Black Prince, acquired the castle along with his new title The Prince of Wales.

The period 1347-1348 Richard de la Bere, the Prince's Chamberlain, managed a rebuilding project for the castle, including new twin-tower gatehouses. As a reward for his service, he was permitted to use the castle rent-free.

In 1382 The castle was granted to Simon Burley and ceased to be a royal property.

In 1403  Owain Glyndŵr's forces took the castle during his "war of independence", causing considerable damage before it was quickly reclaimed by Sir Thomas Carew.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In 1428 The castle was described as being in ruins.

In the Mid-15th Century: Gruffydd ap Nicholas, with help from the Earl of Pembrokeshire, regained control of the castle for the Welsh Lords.

In 1462 Thomas ap Gruffydd succeeded to the ownership of the castle after his father's death.

In Around 1500 Sir Rhys ap Thomas acquired the castle and remodeled it into a comfortable residence, adding large windows and a deer park

In 1521 The castle and estate passed to Sir Rhys' grandson, Sir Rhys ap Gruffydd.

In 1530 Sir Rhys ap Gruffydd was executed for treason, and his lands, including the castle, were reclaimed by the Crown, ending the era of local Welsh lords for nearly a century.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In 1532 A detailed survey revealed the inner ward contained a hall, chapel, and other domestic buildings.

In 1552 A chapel was noted to exist outside the castle's walls.

In the  Early 17th Century: The castle was documented as being in good condition.

In the Mid-17th Century (1640s): The castle suffered from damage during the English Civil War, with defenses added but ultimately left in ruins.

In 1644 The Royalist Sir Charles Gerard captured the castle from Parliamentary forces after several attempts, leading to it changing hands multiple times during the war.

In 1645 Major-General Rowland Laugharne besieged the castle for Parliament but was routed by Gerard in a fierce engagement below the castle walls.

In 1648 After the Royalists surrendered, Cromwell's forces destroyed the castle to prevent it from being used again. The site was neglected afterward, and locals took stones from it to build their homes.

In Around 1700: Documents indicated that the castle had been mostly dismantled by then. 

Showing the remains of Capel Bach y Drindod walls.

In 1785 The chapel was rebuilt and became known locally as 'Capel Bach y Drindod,' which means 'little Chapel of the Trinity.'

In 1830 The castle and chapel were depicted in a print, located in the parish of Cenarth.

In 1843 The parish of Newcastle Emlyn was established, and a new church was built. The chapel served as a schoolroom before it was demolished, and the area later turned into gardens.

In the Mid-19th Century (1850): The castle came under the ownership of Lord Cawdor.

During 1978-1982: Human remains were uncovered during consolidation work on the gatehouse masonry and the construction of a car park by Carmarthenshire District Council.

In 1985 The first accurate plan of the castle site was produced. Further work on the car park revealed the south wall of a chapel and five burials.

• Today: The castle exists as shattered ruins, particularly its gatehouse and adjacent towers, which remain visible. It is a significant landmark and provides communal and recreational space for the town. The legend of the last dragon in Wales, said to have been slain at the castle, is celebrated with dragon gates and sculptures within its grounds.

The legend of the Dragon:-

Gwiber Emlyn The last Dragon in Wales

There are many Dragon legends in Wales, and even our national flag has a Dragon on it.

According to local legend, Newcastle Emlyn saw the last appearance of a dragon in Wales. According to the tale, a winged creature known as a wyvern flew over the town during a fair. It landed in the castle wall and promptly fell asleep.  A brave soldier lay a red shawl on the river Teifi and hid nearby. 

The River Teifi at Emlyn Castle

When the dragon awoke it was attracted by the shawl and flew down to the river to snatch it. The soldier leapt out and speared the dragon, and the dragon's blood poisoned the river killing all the fish.

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Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
52.0390991353816, -4.463191172963189

What Three Words reference: -
///breed.zones.flickers

OS Details: -
Grid Ref: SN 31131 40719

Additional information.
Visiting is easy as this is a car park at the castle (52.03916467192921, -4.465828214069767).

There are lots of facilities in the Town.

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T. E. Lawrence Memorial

 

During a recent short break in Dorset, UK, I came across information about a little known memorial 

dedicated to a fellow Welshman, T.E. Lawrence.

Visit Date: June 2025

Thomas Edward Lawrence was born on August 16, 1888, in Tremadog, Caernarvonshire. He was a British Army officer, archaeologist, diplomat, and writer, known for his significant role during the Arab Revolt and the Sinai and Palestine campaign against the Ottoman Empire in World War I. The wide range of his activities and associations, along with his ability to describe them vividly in writing, earned him international fame as "Lawrence of Arabia," a title later used for the 1962 film based on his wartime experiences.

I do not intend to go into detail of Lawrence's life here as this is widely documented on the internet.

On May 13, 1935, Lawrence was fatally injured in an accident while riding his motorcycle in Dorset, near his cottage, Clouds Hill. This occurred just two months after he had left military service. A dip in the road obstructed his view of two boys on their bicycles. As he swerved to avoid them, he lost control and was thrown over the handlebars. He died six days later on May 19, 1935, at the age of 46. One of the doctors who attended to him was neurosurgeon Hugh Cairns, who subsequently began an extensive study on the loss of life among motorcycle dispatch riders due to head injuries. His research ultimately led to the adoption of crash helmets by both military and civilian motorcyclists.

The location of the crash is marked by a small memorial by the roadside. In a small lay-by on the road to his cottage, there is a tribute to the great man: a tree has been planted along with a small plaque. It's easy to miss as you drive by.

However, this tribute is not exactly at the site of the accident; it is conveniently placed nearby. The actual site of the accident was previously marked by another small memorial a few yards down the wooded path.

I am surprised that this memorial is not more widely known, and I felt fortunate to have visited it instead of simply driving past.

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Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
50.71335225638947, -2.24753863447354

What Three Words reference: -
///tooth.plodding.haggis

The wooded memorial is near
///majoring.sensual.eyebrows

OS Details: -
Grid Ref: SY 82583 90422


Additional information.
Visiting is easy as this is in a lay-by on the public road.
Once at the memorial end of the lay-by follow the small path through the woods to the second memorial.

A full list of blogs can be found at my website

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Point of Ayr Lighthouse

 

The Point of Ayr Lighthouse, also known as the Talacre Lighthouse, 

has a rich and varied history on the north coast of Wales.

Visit Date: April 2024

The Point of Ayr Lighthouse

The lighthouse was constructed in 1776, serving an essential role in maritime navigation.

Its construction was authorized by the Chester Lighthouse Act of 1776, legislation aimed at improving safety for vessels entering and leaving the River Dee.

A trust comprising the Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen of Chester oversaw the construction process. This trust was responsible for ensuring the lighthouse met the necessary specifications for both functionality and aesthetic appeal.

The total cost of building the lighthouse was £349 and 8 shillings and a penny, a significant investment at the time, reflecting the community's commitment to enhancing maritime safety and trade in the region.

The primary objective was to provide warning signals to vessels navigating between the Dee and Mersey Estuary, as well as to safeguard maritime operations along the Welsh coastline. This initiative gained particular significance following the catastrophic loss of two Dublin ferries in 1775, which resulted in the tragic demise of over 200 individuals and considerable damage to cargo.

The lighthouse served as a vital navigational aid, functioning as a directional landfall light with its beam illuminating the northern and western approaches to the Dee estuary. This strategic positioning was essential to alert vessels to the potentially hazardous conditions that characterized the entrance. However, it is important to note that the lighthouse does not feature a light specifically designed to assist mariners as they depart from the estuary, which could pose challenges for navigation in that direction.

The Point of Ayr Lighthouse

The tower was designed based on the Liverpool Docks Board light situated at Hoylake. Its base is inscribed with the initials "H.T.," representing Henry Turner, a prominent local architect and builder.

In 1819, Trinity House assumed ownership from the Point of Ayr Lighthouse Trustees. Since then, Trinity House has served as the authoritative body responsible for lighthouses in Wales and England.

In around 1820, significant alterations were made to the lighthouse structure, including the installation of the current lantern. This reconstruction may have been prompted by a partial structural collapse.

The internal stair was rebuilt circa 1840.

Samuel Brooks, a notable early convert to the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS/Mormon Church), served as the lighthouse keeper from 1825 to 1856. During his lengthy tenure, he resided in one of the quaint cottages designated for lighthouse keepers, which offered him a unique vantage point over the turbulent waters. In addition to Brooks, another significant figure in this early community, John Parry Jr., utilized his masonry skills at the lighthouse in 1848, contributing to its architectural integrity and enduring presence along the coastline.

The Point of Ayr Lighthouse

The lighthouse was decommissioned in 1844 and replaced by a "pile light," a similar structure to the Burnham-on-Sea low lighthouse.

The 1844 lighthouse has since vanished.

The original lighthouse was replaced by a lightship moored in the estuary in 1883. This change came after a court allegation in 1882 claimed that the lighthouse was situated too far inland, following an incident where a steamship ran aground. Although the lighthouse was officially decommissioned in 1844, some sources suggest it was actually taken out of service in 1883 or 1884.

 

The tower is a tapered cylindrical brick structure featuring a balcony and a lantern. It was measured to be 16 meters (52 feet) high in 1776, with a base diameter of 7.8 meters (25.75 feet) and a top diameter of 4.9 meters (16 feet). Some sources indicate that it may actually be 18 meters (59 feet) tall or even 60 feet.

The light is positioned 53 feet above high water and can be seen from 9 miles away in clear weather. It displays a white light from E ¾ W to SE, a red light between SE and W by N ¼ N, and then white light again from N by W. A bell is rung during foggy conditions.

Notably, the lighthouse retains one of the earliest lanterns in Wales. The original structure has a slight lean but has withstood numerous storms. In 2007, it sustained damage from storms, which dislocated the metal steps and created a hole in the base. The cost of repairs was covered by the owners of a nearby caravan park.

The lighthouse was restored in the 1990s.

The Point of Ayr Lighthouse

The lighthouse is now privately owned. It was listed for sale in 2011 for £100,000 and was sold in April 2012 for £90,000 to a private couple.

As a Grade II listed building, it holds the distinction of being the oldest lighthouse in Wales.

The lighthouse is often said to be haunted by a ghost named Raymond, who was the last lighthouse keeper and reportedly died of a fever while on duty. Some visitors claim to have seen a man in old-fashioned clothing standing atop the lighthouse, gazing out to sea during night visits.

In honor of the reported ghost, the then-owner, James McAllister, installed a seven-foot stainless steel sculpture of a 'lighthouse keeper' created by local artist Angela Smith on the balcony between 2009 and 2012. However, the planning permission for the sculpture expired, and it was subsequently relocated.

Relocation account

The Point of Ayr Lighthouse

It is a popular tourist attraction and a dog-friendly destination, particularly known for sunset walks that provide stunning views of the Irish Sea and the Dee Estuary. The surrounding dunes are designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and are part of a nature reserve managed by the RSPB.

Footer:Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
53.357046807776754, -3.32238377723201

What Three Words reference: -
///dignify.conducted.overdrive

OS Details: -
Grid Ref: SJ 12095 85271  Elevation 9 ft

Additional information.
Visiting is easy and there is a car park at the site (53.35321642414517, -3.319730302110794).
Access is easy from here. There are no facilities at this car park but an alternative car park close by (53.35196453461079, -3.3168028637702056) has facilities.

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The Church of the Holy Cross, Mwnt.

The Church of the Holy Cross (Welsh: Eglwys y Grog)

 in Mwnt, Ceredigion, Wales. 

A parish church and a Grade I listed building, 

likely dating from the 13th century.

Visit Date March 2025

The Church of the Holy Cross, Mwnt.

The Church of the Holy Cross is an example of a medieval sailors' chapel of ease, allowing sailors to attend church without traveling all the way to the village of Mwnt.

Click on any image to see a larger version

The site is said to have been used since the Age of the Saints (about 410-700 AD).

The coast at Mwnt

The dedication to the Holy Cross likely references a stone cross that once stood atop Foel y Mwnt, the conical hill directly behind the church.

The cross would also have been visible for many miles out to sea,  attracting pilgrims who drew their boats up on the sandy beach at the base of the cliffs.

A pilgrims way wall hanging

Mwnt gained a reputation among early Christians as a stopover for the bodies of saints being transported to Bardsey Island for burial. Its location also made it a convenient resting place for pilgrims traveling to St. David's, further down the coast.

North wall showing blocked lancet

On the north wall, there is a small blocked lancet window that may have permitted lepers—who were not allowed inside churches—to view the high altar during services.

The Church of the Holy Cross, Mwnt.

On the north wall, remnants of a medieval rood stair can be found, and timbers from the 15th-century rood loft, embellished with rose carvings, are set into the wall.

Click on any image to see a larger version

The interior consists of a single chamber featuring deep-set windows and a unusually designed roof.

The font

It has an example of a 12th- or 13th-century font made of Preseli stone.

The coast at Mwnt

In 1155, a group of Flemish soldiers landed at Mwnt but were repelled by the local Welsh after fierce fighting. A nearby stream still bears the name Nant y Fflymon, meaning the Flemings' Brook.

The Church of the Holy Cross, Mwnt.

Over the centuries, many human bones have been unearthed. It is believed that the bodies from the battle were buried in the farmer’s field.

The Church of the Holy Cross, Mwnt.

The victory achieved by the local Welsh inhabitants in the area was commemorated, at least in the 18th century when the events were recorded, through secular games held on the first Sunday in January. These games were referred to as “Coch y Mwnt,” which translates to "the Bloody Sunday of Mount."

The Church of the Holy Cross, Mwnt.

The nearby farm features a well named Ffynnon Grog, known as the well of the cross, along with Nant y Flymon, which translates to Fleming’s brook. 

Mwnt was a civil parish for several centuries. However, before the 17th century, it served as a detached chapelry of the parish of Llangoedmor. Since 1934, Mwnt has been part of the parish of Y Ferwig, which consists of a parish church and a few houses. This community includes the villages of Penparc, Felinwynt, Tremain, Mwnt, and Gwbert, as well as Cardigan Island and the National Trust area of Mwnt.

Footer:Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
52.13694896383402, -4.638645221098706

What Three Words reference: -
///echo.dwarf.mission

OS Details: -
OS Grid Ref: SN 19504 52017 

Additional information.

Visiting is easy and there is a car park close to the site (52.135662647388045, -4.638483304444649) This is run by the national trust and is free for members but charges do apply for non-members.

There were no facilities when I visited in March however there is a cafe (Caban Mwnt) a short walk from the car park  (52.1347209027339, -4.639436590459322).

The roads to the site are well maintained single track country roads with passing points. 

I believe this site can become very busy in the summer with visitors to the beach and surrounding areas. 

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A full list of blogs can be found at my website

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