Dryslwyn Castle

Perched atop a commanding hill in the picturesque Tywi Valley, the remnants of Dryslwyn Castle stand as a testament to one of the most important native Welsh fortifications in South Wales.

Its rich history weaves a tale of raw ambition, fierce conflict, and eventual decline, transforming from a proud symbol of Welsh royalty to an English borough and ultimately into ruins.

Visit Date:August 2022

Dryslwyn Castle

The saga of Dryslwyn begins in the late 12th century, following the death of Rhys ap Gruffydd, known as The Lord Rhys, in 1197. His sons fought fiercely for control of the kingdom of Deheubarth, spurring a struggle that would shape the castle's destiny. While it’s believed that the castle may have been built atop a prehistoric fortification, conclusive archaeological evidence is still elusive.

Dryslwyn Castle

Rhys Gryg is credited with founding the stone castle for his son, Maredudd ap Rhys. This fortification is thought to have existed long before its first recorded mention in 1246, when it was named in the Annales Cambriae, detailing a siege led by the seneschal of Carmarthen.

Dryslwyn Castle : 

Under Maredudd ap Rhys's watch, the castle flourished, undergoing significant expansion including the addition of a middle ward. Upon Maredudd's death in 1271, his son, Rhys ap Maredudd, inherited this strategic stronghold. The landscape outside its walls began to take shape in 1281 when King Edward I granted Rhys the right to host an annual four-day fair, marking the early development of a “proto-Welsh town.”

Dryslwyn Castle : showing the windows of the chapel

However, the turmoil of the War of Welsh Independence cast a shadow over Dryslwyn. In 1283, although Rhys ap Maredudd remained loyal to the English Crown, tensions flared when King Edward I denied him the ancestral seat at Dinefwr Castle. Frustrated by ongoing border disputes, 

Dryslwyn Castle : Inner Ward

Rhys rose in rebellion in June 1287, seizing several local castles and drawing the ire of the English, who mobilized a tremendous force of around 11,000 men to respond.

Dryslwyn Castle : Inner Ward

The ensuing siege of Dryslwyn became a harrowing chapter in its history. For weeks, the English laid siege to the castle, deploying trebuchets and utilizing mining techniques. During one such inspection of their tunneling efforts, the ground crumbled, tragically killing several English nobles. Despite the chaos, the castle fell on September 5, although Rhys managed a daring escape.

Dryslwyn Castle : Detail

Rhys ap Maredudd’s luck ultimately ran out in 1292, when he was captured and executed for treason in York, marking the end of his valiant resistance. In the wake of his defeat, the English Crown transformed the surrounding town into a formal borough, carving out 37 burgage plots aimed at attracting English settlers. 

A section of chimney resting on  a concrete platform

By 1304, the town had burgeoned into a bustling community of 50-55 houses, home to approximately 250-275 people. Yet, this prosperity proved short-lived, with the deadly grip of the plague sweeping through in 1361 and 1369, leaving the town in decline.

Dryslwyn Castle : Detail

The castle saw further action during the Welsh uprising, when Owain Glyndŵr seized it in 1403, but it was soon retaken by English forces. 

Dryslwyn Castle : View over Tywi Valley

Determined to prevent it from becoming a stronghold again, they decommissioned the castle, bricking up the main gatehouse, stripping away its stairs, and ultimately setting it ablaze.

Dryslwyn Castle : View over Tywi Valley

Fast forward to the recent past— in 1966, Dryslwyn Castle earned its designation as a Scheduled Ancient Monument, a nod to its historical importance. Between 1980 and 1985, a significant archaeological excavation uncovered much of the castle’s layout and unearthed fascinating artifacts from the 1287 siege, including stone trebuchet balls and remnants of chain mail. Today, Dryslwyn Castle stands as a hauntingly beautiful relic of its storied past, inviting all who visit to imagine the epic battles and princely ambitions that once echoed through its stone walls.

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Visit Information: -

Google Reference: -

51.862349636532706, -4.10138490818748

What Three Words reference: -

///perfected.cult.founding

OS Details: -

SN 55384 20291 Elevation 68m

Visiting is easy with a dedicated car park (51.862757874378424, -4.103788903426793) and then well sign posted walk across the road to the site.

The site is on a hill, so there is a climb to the castle.

There are no facilities here.

NOTE : Occasionally (as noted on the gate) there will be times when dogs are not allowed to ensure the safety of grazing sheep in the castle grounds.

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Bryn Celli Ddu : The Solar Tomb of Anglesey

Bryn Celli Ddu, which translates from Welsh as the "mound in the dark grove," is a prehistoric monument located on the island of Anglesey. It has a history that spans over 5,000 years and is internationally renowned for its solar alignment, where the rising sun on the Summer Solstice shines directly down its passage to illuminate the inner burial chamber.

Visit Date: May 2023

Bryn Celli Ddu

The monument was constructed in two distinct stages during the late Neolithic period. Around 3,000 BC, it began as a henge, a ritual enclosure consisting of a bank and an inner ditch that measures roughly 21 meters in diameter. This enclosure protected a central area that contained a circle of upright stones. Archaeological evidence from this phase includes a central pit where a small human ear bone was found covered by a flat stone, along with evidence of ritual fires.

Bryn Celli Ddu

During the later stages of the Neolithic period, the henge underwent a significant transformation, evolving into a passage tomb—a type of burial monument that is characteristic of the European Atlantic tradition. The original stone circle was largely dismantled to make way for a meticulously constructed stone-lined passage that extends approximately seven meters in length. This passage leads to a spacious, polygonal central chamber, seamlessly integrated into the earth beneath. Over this intricate structure, the builders heaped a substantial earth mound, which today boasts an impressive diameter of roughly 26 meters, inviting both awe and curiosity from those who encounter it.

Bryn Celli Ddu : Pattern Stone

Externally, archaeologists discovered The Pattern Stone, a stone decorated with spirals and zig-zag carvings, in a pit behind the chamber. Interestingly, the Neolithic builders chose to conceal these carvings from view, suggesting that the act of carving was deemed more significant than the display itself. The original stone is now housed at the National Museum of Wales, with a replica available on-site.

Bryn Celli Ddu : Pillar Stone

Inside the chamber, researchers uncovered several significant items: - The Pillar Stone: A 1.7 meter high smoothed stone pillar stands in the chamber and is often interpreted as a "protectress" or tomb guardian. - Ritual Deposits: Excavations revealed human bones (both burnt and unburnt), flint arrowheads, quartz, and sea shells within the passage.

Bryn Celli Ddu : Inner Tunnel

The most famous aspect of Bryn Celli Ddu’s history is its precise astronomical alignment. Although astronomer Sir Norman Lockyer first proposed the theory of a solstice alignment in 1907, it was not officially proven until investigations by the National Museum of Wales in 2005. On the longest day of the year (June 20–22), the sun reaches its highest elevation and casts a beam of light that perfectly penetrates the tomb’s entrance, illuminating the interior.

Bryn Celli Ddu

Recent archaeological investigations have revealed that Bryn Celli Ddu is not an isolated monument but is situated at the center of a vast and complex prehistoric ritual landscape. Surveys have identified a previously unknown Bronze Age cairn cemetery surrounding the original mound, as well as at least ten new panels of prehistoric rock art.

Bryn Celli Ddu

Today, the monument remains a focal point for modern-day Druids and visitors who gather annually to witness the midsummer sunrise.

Bryn Celli Ddu

Another significant related site is Barclodiad y Gawres, a passage tomb on western Anglesey that shares a similar arrangement and rock art carvings, which will be discussed in a future study.

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Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
53.208174540950424, -4.2360328420463


What Three Words reference: -
///vegetable.vibe.rates


OS Details: -
SH 50757 70181
Elevation 33m
Additional information.
Visiting is easy with a dedicated car park (53.204833098621464, -4.2400776132045) and then a 500m well sign posted walk to the site.

There are no facilities here.

Cross the Britannia Bridge on to the island then turn left on the A55 and then left again on to the A4080 from there a right turn marked with a brown tourist sign for the site.

 

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Llety'r Filliast

The Neolithic Heart of the Great Orme

Llety'r Filiast is an important archaeological, cultural, and historical site, 

prominently recognized as a Neolithic burial chamber located on the Great Orme, near Llandudno.

Visit Date: April 2024

Llety'r Filiast South View

Llety'r Filiast is classified as a Neolithic chambered cairn, or portal dolmen, which was commonly used during the Neolithic era, approximately between 6,000 and 4,500 years ago.

Click on any image to enlarge

The chamber itself measures about 2.1 meters long and 1.5 meters high, surrounded by the remains of a cairn that once covered it. Originally, this cairn was believed to be around 30 meters long and 10 meters wide, with a roughly egg-shaped form, though much of the stone has been removed over time. The space under the horizontal capstone likely contained the remains of significant community figures or family members, possibly cremated.

While it is unclear whether the chamber featured a visible entrance or was entirely enclosed, structures like this are thought to hold deeper symbolic meanings, possibly serving as "portals to another world" or relating to ancient creation myths.

The construction of elaborate burial chambers like Llety'r Filiast reflects a critical phase in human development—the Neolithic era. During this time, people transitioned from nomadic hunter-gatherers to settled agricultural communities, enabling them to allocate resources to significant projects, such as building burial sites, as they were no longer solely focused on sourcing food.

A geophysical survey conducted by Jo Jones in 1996 at the "Cromlech Field," where Llety'r Filiast is situated, revealed traces of an outer ring ditch and potential postholes, indicating the presence of a henge monument associated with the site. Nearby finds include Romano-British ceramic material unearthed close to the chamber, suggesting later activities in the area.

Llety'r Filiast (Viewed from East)

Llety'r Filiast is located near the Great Orme, a limestone headland on the north coast of Wales, northwest of Llandudno. The Great Orme, referred to as Cyngreawdr Fynydd by the 12th-century poet Gwalchmai ap Meilyr, derives its English name from the Old Norse word for "sea serpent."

Llety'r Filiast (Viewed from the North)

Nearby are the Orme copper mines, discovered in 1987 during landscaping efforts on the Great Orme. These copper mines represent one of the most remarkable archaeological finds in recent history, dating back 4,000 years to the Bronze Age, and they have reshaped our understanding of the ancient people of Britain and their structured societies, well before the Roman invasion. While Llety'r Filiast predates these mines, it is also geographically close to other prehistoric structures, such as Neolithic roundhouses on the Great Orme. Local tradition suggests that a trackway from the mines may have passed by the cromlech, indicating that the dolmen might have served as a "guardian" of the mines' entrance. This site is part of a larger landscape rich in early human activity on the Great Orme, which includes evidence of Mesolithic flint tools and Neolithic implements found in a nearby valley.

Llety'r Filiast (Viewed from the west)

The name Llety'r Filiast translates to "The Lair of the Greyhound Bitch" or "Lodging of the Greyhound Bitch." This name is shared with other tombs across Wales, although no specific story survives to explain its significance for this particular site. "Filiast" is commonly interpreted as a reference to a female greyhound or grey-colored hound. Some theories connect these sites to the Celtic goddess Cerridwen, whose symbols included a "milast," a form she is believed to have taken during initiation rituals. Another interpretation links "milast" to Camulus (Mars), to whom greyhound bitches and horses were dedicated. Folklore also associates phantom guard dogs with "the bowels of the earth," drawing similarities to Cerberus guarding the underworld or to the "Bar Guest" of the Derbyshire Mines. This connection may provide insight into the name "Lair of the Greyhound Bitch," suggesting that such sites were viewed with a mix of awe and fear, relating to their mystical or protective associations with the underworld.

 

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Visit Information: -

Google Reference: -

53.32922567161166, -3.844655684295934

What Three Words reference: -

///pill.navy.typed

OS Details: -

SH 77216 82940 elevation 447

Additional information.

Visiting is easy. There is a small place to park at the side of the field (53.32897301962271, -3.844905483766489) but this is a small country lane really.

The most satisfying way to visit would be to take a ride on the Great Orme Tramway, (53.32727640960437, -3.835464572077922) which is a funicular railway. Get off at the halfway stage and you can walk to the site, however the terrain is quite steep.

There are lots of facilities in the Town.

A full list of blogs can be found at my website

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Newcastle Emlyn Castle

 

Where the last Dragon in Wales was slain.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle, a significant landmark in the town, has a rich and turbulent history, reflected in its physical evolution and its current state as a scheduled monument and Grade I listed structure.

Visit Date: March 2025

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

The town of Newcastle Emlyn in the county of Carmarthenshire takes its name from the castle and the ancient district of Emlyn.

The Castle, now a scheduled monument and Grade I listed structure, exhibits the remains of a strategic medieval design, adapted over centuries from a probable timber and earth stronghold to a stone fortress and then a residence, before its eventual destruction.

Dragon Gate at Newcastle Emlyn Castle

The castle is strategically located on a steep-sided promontory within a great bend or loop of the River Teifi, making it naturally defensible on three sides. Its only land approach was from the west.

The inner court, roughly triangular in shape, is believed to be the core of the 13th-century castle. It measures approximately 45 metres east-west and 25 metres across at its western end.

An outer court was located to the west, towards the town, and was defined by earthworks. This outer court was roughly 50 metres east-west by 40 metres, with its eastern part later obscured by a 17th-century ravelin.

Click on any image to see just images

The castle has a long and turbulent history which starts before 1240 as there may have been an older building on the site, possibly taken by the Welsh leader Llywelyn the Great.

In Around 1240 A stone castle was likely built by Maredudd ap Rhys, a Welsh lord. This made Newcastle Emlyn one of the few stone castles built by the Welsh in West Wales. It might have started as a wooden structure before being rebuilt in stone by 1287. The castle served as an important administrative center since Maredudd lived mainly at Dryslwyn Castle.

In the 1250s The "new castle" (Castell Newydd Emlyn), which gave the town its name, was established on the banks of the River Teifi.

In 1257 The castle is first mentioned in historical documents. This year, King Henry III approved an agreement that allowed Maredudd to divide the Emlyn area. A bridge connecting Newcastle Emlyn to Adpar was also built.

In 1271 Rhys ap Maredudd, Maredudd's son, gained ownership of the castle.

In 1287 Rhys ap Maredudd rebelled against the English Crown. The castle was attacked by Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, but Rhys's men recaptured it.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

During 1287-1288 The castle was besieged and captured by Robert Tiptoft, Justiciar of South Wales, after a 23-day barricade. Rhys ap Maredudd fled, ending his revolt, and his estate was confiscated by the Crown. The English forces had to haul their siege engine from Dryslwyn to Cardigan with forty oxen, and then needed sixty oxen to bring it up the Teifi Valley to Newcastle Emlyn.

In 1291 Rhys ap Maredudd was captured and executed the following year.

In 1294-1295 The castle was abandoned during Madoc ap Llewelyn's revolt. However, David ap Moris and his son David Fychan held the castle until the King arrived, and David Fychan was subsequently made Bailiff of Emlyn.

IN 1300 The Treasurer of South Wales was instructed by Edward I to ensure the castle was repaired and provisioned.

In 1303 A settlement outside the castle gates was formally established as a borough, granted a weekly market and two annual fairs. It became known as Newtown Emlyn and saw the creation of 26 burgage plots, increasing to 62 by 1316.

In 1300-1350 The castle flourished and saw major constructions during the reigns King Edward I, II, and III, including the construction of a great hall and twin-tower gatehouse.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In the Early 14th Century The town thrived, but its growth faced challenges from nearby places and events like the Black Death.

In 1312 Edward II commissioned a new hall, costing £50.

In 1343 A report indicated that the castle was in poor shape. Edward, the Black Prince, acquired the castle along with his new title The Prince of Wales.

The period 1347-1348 Richard de la Bere, the Prince's Chamberlain, managed a rebuilding project for the castle, including new twin-tower gatehouses. As a reward for his service, he was permitted to use the castle rent-free.

In 1382 The castle was granted to Simon Burley and ceased to be a royal property.

In 1403  Owain Glyndŵr's forces took the castle during his "war of independence", causing considerable damage before it was quickly reclaimed by Sir Thomas Carew.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In 1428 The castle was described as being in ruins.

In the Mid-15th Century: Gruffydd ap Nicholas, with help from the Earl of Pembrokeshire, regained control of the castle for the Welsh Lords.

In 1462 Thomas ap Gruffydd succeeded to the ownership of the castle after his father's death.

In Around 1500 Sir Rhys ap Thomas acquired the castle and remodeled it into a comfortable residence, adding large windows and a deer park

In 1521 The castle and estate passed to Sir Rhys' grandson, Sir Rhys ap Gruffydd.

In 1530 Sir Rhys ap Gruffydd was executed for treason, and his lands, including the castle, were reclaimed by the Crown, ending the era of local Welsh lords for nearly a century.

Newcastle Emlyn Castle

In 1532 A detailed survey revealed the inner ward contained a hall, chapel, and other domestic buildings.

In 1552 A chapel was noted to exist outside the castle's walls.

In the  Early 17th Century: The castle was documented as being in good condition.

In the Mid-17th Century (1640s): The castle suffered from damage during the English Civil War, with defenses added but ultimately left in ruins.

In 1644 The Royalist Sir Charles Gerard captured the castle from Parliamentary forces after several attempts, leading to it changing hands multiple times during the war.

In 1645 Major-General Rowland Laugharne besieged the castle for Parliament but was routed by Gerard in a fierce engagement below the castle walls.

In 1648 After the Royalists surrendered, Cromwell's forces destroyed the castle to prevent it from being used again. The site was neglected afterward, and locals took stones from it to build their homes.

In Around 1700: Documents indicated that the castle had been mostly dismantled by then. 

Showing the remains of Capel Bach y Drindod walls.

In 1785 The chapel was rebuilt and became known locally as 'Capel Bach y Drindod,' which means 'little Chapel of the Trinity.'

In 1830 The castle and chapel were depicted in a print, located in the parish of Cenarth.

In 1843 The parish of Newcastle Emlyn was established, and a new church was built. The chapel served as a schoolroom before it was demolished, and the area later turned into gardens.

In the Mid-19th Century (1850): The castle came under the ownership of Lord Cawdor.

During 1978-1982: Human remains were uncovered during consolidation work on the gatehouse masonry and the construction of a car park by Carmarthenshire District Council.

In 1985 The first accurate plan of the castle site was produced. Further work on the car park revealed the south wall of a chapel and five burials.

• Today: The castle exists as shattered ruins, particularly its gatehouse and adjacent towers, which remain visible. It is a significant landmark and provides communal and recreational space for the town. The legend of the last dragon in Wales, said to have been slain at the castle, is celebrated with dragon gates and sculptures within its grounds.

The legend of the Dragon:-

Gwiber Emlyn The last Dragon in Wales

There are many Dragon legends in Wales, and even our national flag has a Dragon on it.

According to local legend, Newcastle Emlyn saw the last appearance of a dragon in Wales. According to the tale, a winged creature known as a wyvern flew over the town during a fair. It landed in the castle wall and promptly fell asleep.  A brave soldier lay a red shawl on the river Teifi and hid nearby. 

The River Teifi at Emlyn Castle

When the dragon awoke it was attracted by the shawl and flew down to the river to snatch it. The soldier leapt out and speared the dragon, and the dragon's blood poisoned the river killing all the fish.

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Visit Information: -
Google Reference: -
52.0390991353816, -4.463191172963189

What Three Words reference: -
///breed.zones.flickers

OS Details: -
Grid Ref: SN 31131 40719

Additional information.
Visiting is easy as this is a car park at the castle (52.03916467192921, -4.465828214069767).

There are lots of facilities in the Town.

A full list of blogs can be found at my website

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